Fra diavolo, which shares a name with the 18th-century guerilla leader who fought to keep the French out of Naples, is a perfect fit for The Obstinate Daughter, the new Sullivan’s Island restaurant named for an 18th-century British caricature of revolutionary Charleston. With the dish, chef Jacques Larson has painted a family tree of political resistance.
But Larson doesn’t exactly stick to the fra diavolo script. Instead of padding the seafood bowl with skeins of linguine, or embroidering its edges with gaping, black-shelled mussels, he stops with the ringlets of squid and marble-sized calico scallops. When it appeared on our table, I swear I thought I was looking at sauced pasta (blame the many Spaghetti-O’s I ate in my college days.)
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